The treasure of the sea has a name: ambergris. This word comes from French “ambre gris” which literally means grey amber.

What exactly is Ambergris?

We would love to see the look on your face at this point. It’s literally whale vomit. Really, it is! Ambergris is a waste product of sperm whales, produced in the digestive tract, that is brought back up over time. An amazing mechanism that nature could never have concocted itself – the purpose of ambergris is believed to help the lovely whale pass sharp objects through its gut (mainly squid beaks from squid that do not digest). According to scientists, an ambergris mass is too large to pass through the intestines and so is expelled by the mouth; that’s why it is said ambergris is comes from whale vomit.

Its origin was a mystery for many years but when it became known, industry prospered and millions of whales were hunted, not only for the ambergris but also for their oil used to make soap and fuel lamps.

They are now protected worldwide and ambergris is considered as a waste substance of sperm whales that occurs naturally, so it is absolutely legal to collect it when you find some ambergris floating on the sea or washed up on the coast except in a few countries such as the United States.

Ambergris is rare, it can float on the ocean for years and can be found in the Atlantic Ocean, on the coasts of South Africa, Brazil, Madagascar, The Maldives, Japan, Australia, New Zealand, etc…

I have even read that someone has found some ambergris on Morecambe beach in England.

Ambergris is precious, it is one of the most rare materials you will find land and sea. The price can vary from country to country. For the most part, it is currently more valuable than gold (more than 1.5 times) and can cost up to $120,000USD per kilogram. There are various levels of quality for this ingredient. The lowest one is black, brown to grey being standard and finally the best one which is white to grey. Its color changes with oxidation, which happens when exposed to the sea, air and sun for a long time.

Why making Ambergris Perfumes?

Ambergris has a special quality that is sought after in the perfume industry – it has a unique ability to increase the longevity of a fragrance. And it does this better than anything seen before. Something that it’s unique for is suspending smells in the air. Ambergris has a strong fecal smell but exposure to the sun and salt water transform it to a compact rock with a more pleasant smell. It has a very unique but complex scent, to describe it; it’s ambery, musky, warm and oceanic, and with a tobacco leaf note.

Which brings us to our next point regarding ambergris perfume. Ambergris is a heart or base note (this depends on how long it has cured). It has very low volatility and can last for days on end. Any perfume with even the smallest amount of ambergris present, will last longer between usage, conserving your fragrances, allowing you to really get your moneys worth, and smelling exceptional too.

Different Qualities of Ambergris

Ambergris evolves over time and exposure to the natural elements, presenting in various colors, each with its unique aroma. The distinctions within white ambergris alone are notable, particularly when considering its two primary scent profiles: Fresh Oceanic and Warm.

White Ambergris

Fresh Oceanic Ambergris

This quality of white ambergris is characterized by its crisp, marine, and slightly animalic notes, reminiscent of a clean sea breeze intermingled with subtle, raw oceanic elements. Often found in the South Pacific Ocean, in locales like New Zealand, this variety is highly prized for its ability to add a fresh, airy dimension to perfumes, offering the nuanced and ephemeral beauty of the sea.

Warm Ambergris

In contrast, the Warm variety of white ambergris offers rich sweet and warm notes, including tobacco and vanilla, evoking the warmth of sunlit days on tropical shores. Sources like the Indian Ocean are renowned for yielding ambergris with these cozy, indulgent scent profiles. Warm ambergris is sought after for its deep, complex aromas that lend a luxurious, comforting presence to fragrant compositions.

Other Qualities of Ambergris

Grey Ambergris

Marks a transitional phase in ambergris maturity, featuring a blend of marine freshness and warm, earthy undertones. It's a versatile scent used in perfumery to add depth without overpowering.

Brown Ambergris

Noted for its softer, waxier texture and sweeter, musky to floral notes. Brown ambergris is commonly employed to introduce warmth and richness to fragrances.

Black Ambergris

The initial, least mature form, characterized by its dense, sticky appearance and strong, earthy, marine aroma. It provides a solid base note in aromatic compositions, contributing a robust foundation to the fragrance blend.

The evolution of ambergris from black to the revered white, passing through shades of brown and grey, is a testament to nature's alchemy. Its transformation yields an array of scent profiles from the fresh, invigorating oceanic to the warm, enveloping sweetness, each with its own place and purpose in the art of perfumery.

One More Thing

It's important to mention that the specific scent characteristics of ambergris are highly variable and depend on numerous factors beyond just geographic origin, including the piece's exposure to environmental conditions and its age. Indian Ocean and South Pacific Ocean's reputations in this context come from anecdotal evidences and the high quality of some finds reported there, rather than a guaranteed characteristic of all ambergris originating from the region.

The Benefits Of Using Ambergris.

Ambergris is used for more than just perfumery. It has been used for thousands of years and even until today, people reap the benefits of its uses. Apart from being used as an ingredient in perfumes or as an incense is traditional medicine. Here is a list of some ailments that it has been used to treat:

Heart problems
Brain problems and headaches
Muscle tension
Nervous diseases
Facial paralysis
Epilepsy
Depression

Before becoming so popularly used as ambergris perfume, it was for a long time, used as a powerful aphrodisiac. That’s right. Ambergris contains pheromones which stimulate the hormonal system. The compounds present in scents really do impact our bodies a lot more than we realize.

Ambergris is an expensive ingredient and nowadays a part of ambergris has been replaced by synthetic products in the perfume industry.

The Alternative: Synthetic Ambergris Perfume

Now it will never ever be as good as the original but there have been attempts (and pretty decent ones too) of making a synthetic lab version of ambergris. But not so much the ambergris itself, more the specific compounds inside ambergris perfume, for example, Ambroxan.

Scientists have developed ways of extracting and “growing” the enzymes needed to produce Ambroxan. A very interesting feat in fact. They use bacteria to host DNA from a plant known as sage, which happens to produce a chemical called sclareol. This is then converted to the named ingredient.

Our Conclusion

Now as for our final verdict, nothing quite beats the original and natural of anything. It’s authentic, more powerful, contains all the other extras that we love, and makes the whole experience real. If you can get your hands on perfume that contains real ambergris, then you’ll learn very quickly that there is nothing quite like it.

If you want to experience real ambergris, you will find some perfumes with real authentic ambergris inside our Amber Collection, among them the famous Sheikh Al Faransi, FBI: Fabulous Blend from India, Imperial Ambergris and Amber Al Quds.

Sheikh Al Faransi is our most popular of the Ambergris. With only 5 star reviews, you won’t go wrong. With its authentic ambergris, amber, and the presence of a beautiful Oud Cambodi, it adds true class to its surroundings.

Ambergris Perfume: All You Need to Know