What is Musk? White Musk & Black Musk
I have compiled my researches about the difference between white musk and black musk, but also regarding the musk origins, and how the term Synthetic is frequently misunderstood. I voluntary wrote it short and smooth to make it easy to everybody to understand, even if you are new in the world of perfumery.
What are the Origins of musk?
Musk has been discovered a thousand years ago when we learnt that chevrotain also known as mouse deer developed a particular scent during their rut. Some researches have been done and a gland housed inside the animal’s abdomen was found.
The word musk originates from Greek and Persian and means testicle.
It was sometimes necessary to kill the animal to take this gland. In the 20th century, around 50000 animals were killed each years just for the musk. Around the 1970’s, species became rare and price of musk increased a lot till being more expensive than gold.
But nowadays this time is from the past and species are protected. You can find for example in China farms allowed to extract the gland without killing the animal.
What is Black Musk?
Black Musk is also known as Deer Musk or Musk Al Ghazal.
Animals such as musk deers and African civets have perineal glands (pods) which produce secretions that become musk. The pods are removed from the animal and dried on hot stones or by the sun before being opened to obtain the original black musk. The black musk powder found inside is used as it is or diluted in oil to make a liquid solution.
Vegan Black Musk: The Botanical Alternative
Botanical black musk, a vegan alternative to traditional black musk, is crafted without the use of animal-origin ingredients. Unlike conventional black musk derived from the perineal glands of musk deers or African civets, botanical black musk is made using plant-based elements. The process begins with a combination of botanical extracts and essential oils, carefully chosen for their aromatic properties. Common ingredients include dark, resinous plant resins, such as labdanum and benzoin, along with earthy notes like vetiver and patchouli. These elements are skillfully blended to replicate the deep and rich scent profile of black musk. The final product is a cruelty-free alternative to offer a scent close of traditional black musk.
We can proudly mention 2 botanical black musks:
Black Musk: Roots
Our Black Musk, soberly named Black Musk, is a botanical masterpiece that pays homage to tradition while respecting ethical consciousness. Following the codes of what should be a classic black musk attar, Black Musk is crafted as a vegan rendition of the original deer musk. From the initial burst of animalic musk harmonizing with subtle notes of citrus, to the earthy tree bark and vanilla notes, Black Musk is transports the wearers to the heart of Arabian luxury.
Musk Bushi Sensei: Sophistication
Experience the encounter of Arabian tradition and Japanese refinement with Musk Bushi Sensei, a fragrance that mixes mastery and power. Inspired by the warriors of the Far East, Musk Bushi Sensei offers a modern twist on black musk, eschewing animalic elements in favor of a sweeter, more floral composition. Delicate notes of Osmanthus from Japan and wild rose from Asia mingle with hints of vanilla and Himalayan musk notes, creating a scent that exudes an aura of distinction.
What is White Musk?
White Musk is also known as Musk Tahara or Body Musk.
Natural ambrette flower seeds can be used in their natural form as a musk substitute. the seeds can sometimes be confused with raw, black musk, although in reality, their textures are very different. Ambrette seeds are more grain-like, while the texture of fresh, raw musk is similar to moist, black soil.
Crystalised ambrette musk is used in many perfume recipes, synthetic ambrette musk comes from ambrette flowers, which are found in India and subtropical Asia. This plant shares a similar fragrance with real musk and can, therefore, be used to create a substitute.
White musk has a clean smooth scent without fecal notes found in original black musk.
The Texture of White Musk
One fascinating aspect of white musk is its variability in texture, which can range from creamy white to nearly transparent. This difference is influenced by the specific ingredients and formulation techniques used. At Maison Anthony Marmin, all our white musk attars are free from chemicals and alcohol, ensuring the highest quality and authenticity.
After Musk Tahara Royal, an excellent example is our White Musk Taifi, a luxurious fragrance crafted with a harmonious blend of natural ingredients. Its olfactory composition includes the richness of Taif rose and the depth of frankincense, perfectly balanced with the softness of powdery musk.
What is the difference between Artificial and Synthetic Musk?
In 1888, Mr. Baur accidentally discovered an artificial musk during his research. However, this musk was toxic and unsuitable for use.
Synthetic white musk is a more recent addition to the world of perfumery. The first synthetic musk used in the perfume industry was developed in 1926. It serves as a substitute for natural black and white musk, and many variations are available in powder form, each with its unique scent profile.
Some of you might think that synthetic means the same as artificial or chemical. However, this understanding of the term "synthetic" is incorrect. Let me explain:
An artificial fragrance is entirely human-made using chemical compounds. To put it simply, one could describe it as a "fake perfume."
A synthetic fragrance, on the other hand, is a reproduction of a natural fragrance. It is created by mimicking a natural process or product through human ingenuity. For example, when oxygen reacts with hydrogen (2H₂ + O₂ = 2H₂O), the water produced is chemically identical to river water—a "natural synthetic" product.
Another example is vanillin, the molecule responsible for vanilla's aroma. While vanillin naturally occurs in vanilla pods, humans can synthesize it from other natural sources such as cloves, wood lignin, or beet pulp. The result is a natural synthetic product that mirrors the original.
Synthetic white musk can be derived from either natural or artificial sources, depending on the ingredients used. For instance, it can be created using extracts from flowers. By this reasoning, white musk is synthetic but not necessarily artificial.
